Aaron is a pioneering ice climber with nearly 100 first ascents. He’s one of the people who inspired me to start ice climbing so it is an honor to feature him in Vale Tudo. Let’s kick it off from the beginning:
CD: It sounds like your dad liked exploring new ground when you’d hunt; is that where your enthusiasm for new ice routes comes from?
AM: Absolutely, my dad and I spent many hours exploring new hard to reach places while hunting waterfowl and small game as a kid. The goal for him was to just get outside and see new places. He didn’t care if we ever shot our guns. If we were able to put food on the table that was a bonus.
CD: Any favorite childhood exploration you did as a family?
AM: Mostly hunting and camping all across California.
CD: What’s the coldest you’ve ever been climbing?
AM: That is a tough question because I think I have been extremely cold so many times that memories start to blur on particular moments. Most likely it was in Alaska climbing the Colton-Leach route or climbing the super rare high volume waterfall here locally called Bridal Veil.
CD: And when did you experience the most fear?
AM: As I have gotten older and I have lost so many friends pursuing the sports I love my view on risk and fear has changed dramatically. But fear is still something I crave. The factor I evaluate more is the risk I put myself in. Fear comes in various forms so I try to not choose high risk situations to find fear. And yeah there are times you find yourself in a high risk situation and you have to ask yourself is the risk worth the reward and sometimes it is, but if you choose high risk often it will eventually catch up to you.
CD: What’s the best state in the country for a climber?
AM: No question Wyoming is the best!
CD: How do you handle the dangers of doing something that hasn’t been done before?
AM: For most people they fear the unknown but for me I prefer the unknown. My mind works better dealing with situations as they come at me versus knowing ahead of time. This is an extremely important asset to have as a climber and kayaker. I have seen incredible climbers and kayakers lose their shit mentally when things don’t go as planned.
When things like that happen for me I’m able to put myself in a zone that resembles the flow state. I am able to disconnect from the feeling of fear and just focus on each moment in time. I remember when I did the first ascent of The Gambler and I knew the pillar was sketchy but I thought I could get really good gear.
Well as I climbed out from the pillar on the free hanging pillars I realized there was really no gear and the ice screw I placed was worthless, but there was no way to reverse my ascent so the only option was to stay focused knowing if I fell more than likely I would die.
When I topped out the route I had the biggest high of my life.
CD: What is the most beautiful thing you’ve ever climbed?
AM: There are so many but it would have to be Hell’s Angel or numerous routes in Norway.
CD: Are we running out of ways to be pioneers?
AM: There will be exploration and new climbs and places to discover for many years to come. The world is full of rarely touched places but we have to be willing to just take the tools for a hike. I look at exploration like my dad when we went hunting. The most important part of the day is to explore some place new and if we find a new route then that is just icing on the cake. People need to be willing to invest the time and effort to explore new places. And ice is ever changing and hard to hunt down much like a trophy bull or buck. Sometimes it’s all about being in the right place at the right time.
CD: We’re the same age; how do you stay durable?
AM: Getting old sucks but once you stop moving and pushing yourself your body begins to revolt. I train pretty hard in the off season running in the mountains and focusing time in the gym. This has always been really important for me mentally as well. I eat lots of meat, very few vegetables, and a ton of ice cream. Nobody should take dieting advice from me!
CD: How do you name routes?
AM: Naming routes is always fun and sometimes I have a list and sometimes I try to name the route given the experience or things that happened that day. Some favorites: "The Gambler", "Freak on a Leash", and "Running with a Gun" named after being chased by a grizzly bear.
CD: How do you split time between a day job and outdoor adventures?
AM: The goal for me when I was working my executive job was getting in the gym first thing in the morning and pushing myself hard. This was really key in my success in the mountains and in work.
CD: What parts of fitness matters most in the mountains?
AM: I push myself hard in all of my fitness but endurance and moving in the mountains for a long time are really important skills to have. I think endurance and making yourself uncomfortable in the gym is really important.
CD: Have you needed to use outdoor survival skills en route to vertical ice?
AM: I have been incredibly lucky and I haven’t had any major issues of my own. I think one thing that is really important is to take assessment of your surroundings and listen to them. Now that I think about it my first year ice climbing I was caught in an avalanche and buried ten feet from the edge of a 150’ ice flow. That changed how I looked at climbs.
CD: What’s your next adventure?
AM: Where I live there is always something to climb or kayak. I love the changing seasons when I hang up my ice tools and focus on something different where I’m not tying into a rope. I think over the years this has been incredibly valuable in resetting my mind and not being complacent when it’s time to tie back in.
CD: Readers, if you have a spirit of adventure and want to see what Aaron is talking about, then mark your calendar to kick off 2026 with his Wyoming Ice Festival. I know I want to go; I don’t know if I’ll want to leave.
AM: You have to come!!
CD: Thank you, Aaron, for your time and thanks for being such an inspiration. You exemplify what I and many Vale Tudo readers admire.
We’re on an Aaron Mulkey adventure. Mulkey. Do not answer the phone if that fucker calls. Holy shit.
- Gary Edgeworth
Always love seeing these interviews Chris. Every person put up here is always so damn interesting.
Thank you Chris, As a Climber Kayaker in Australia its so nice to read about our Brothers and sisters in physical mental and spiritual adventure